Kirkwall is the largest town and capital of the Orkney Islands, in northern Scotland. The town is first mentioned in the Orkneyinga saga in the year 1046. It was the settlement of Rognvald II, Earl of Orkney, who was killed by his successor, Thorfinn. In 1486 King James III of Scotland elevated Kirkwall to the status of a Royal Burgh. The name "Kirkwall" is derived from the norse name "Kirkjuvagr" meaning "Church bay", this was later corrupted into "Kirkvoe" and then "Kirkwaa". English cartographers mistook the latter part "waa" as the Scots wa', meaning wall, hence the name of the town became "Kirkwall".

Situated on the northern coast of Mainland Orkney, it is a port with ferry services to most of the other islands in the group. By present-day Scottish standards, it is a very small town, with a population of about 7,000. At the heart of the town stands St Magnus Cathedral which can be seen from some distance away. It was founded in memory of Saint Magnus, earl of Orkney from 1108 to 1117. Next to the cathedral are the ruins of the former bishop's palace and earl's palace. The town has two museums, one containing items of local historical interest and the other being the small "Wireless Museum", dealing with the history of radio and recorded sound.

One of the main events in the town is the Ba game, held each Christmas Day and New Year's Day between the Uppies and the Doonies; each team representing one half of the town.

The two sides are the Uppies and the Doonies, or more correctly, "Up-the-Gates" and "Doon-the-Gates" from Old Norse gata (path or road). Originally the side any individual played on was decided by whether he (or she) was born up or doon the gate, but with recent housing developments, this tends to be decided by family loyalties nowadays. Which side ferryloupers (incomers) and people from the isles or rural areas take is either determined by the route taken on their first arrival in Kirkwall, by family influence, or by the side their friends play on.

The Men's Ba' is thrown up at 13:00 at the Mercat Cross on the Kirk Green opposite the Cathedral, usually by an older Ba' stalwart, but occasionally by some public figure, with up to 200 players eagerly awaiting the chime of the bells. The Ba' disappears into the scrum, which may spend some considerable time on Broad Street. Much exciting surging and turning play often occurs on this wider part of the street, which can frequently determine the final outcome.

Occasionally the Ba' appears out of the scrum and someone makes a dash through the crowds of spectators. To the casual onlooker this can happen at any moment, but the seasoned Ba'- watcher can often see what is happening long before the Ba' suddenly erupts. Breaks sometimes occur on Broad Street, but can occur anywhere where one side gains sufficient control of part of the scrum.

The Doonies have the benefit of a flat push to Albert Street, while the Uppies have a hard push up to the top of Tankerness Lane. The game may also go down one of the flagstones lanes, or down Castle Street onto the open Junction Road. Once there either side may gain the upper hand by means of a smuggle and run, or the scrum may become immobile in one of the many closes and yards.

However if the Uppies manage to enter Victoria Street, or the Doonies Albert Street, the opposition have a much harder time, due to the narrowness and the press of often many hundreds of keen spectators. All the same the Ba' may be restricted for several hours in any of the many lanes and neither side ever gives up the struggle until the goal is reached.

The Doonies goal is the sea, normally within the Basin of the Harbour, but so long as it is immersed in the salt water of Kirkwall Bay, the Ba' has gone doon. The Uppies must round the Long, or Mackinson's corner at the junction of Main Street with New Scapa Road, opposite the Catholic Church. Once Up or Doon, lengthy argument often ensues before a popular winner is acclaimed. When the winner is finally decided, many players repair to the his house, where much needed refreshment rapidly appears. To Ba' enthusiasts the ultimate honour is to have the trophy of the game, the Ba itself, hanging in the living room window.